B Laban Just Dropped 'Egypt's Biggest Mango Tarte'

B Laban has rarely encountered a dessert it did not believe could be made larger, louder or given a name requiring its own pronunciation guide. Its latest contribution to Egypt’s ongoing study of edible excess is Bazabeezo Mango, which the dessert shop is calling the country’s biggest mango tart.

The name offers few clues, but this is consistent with B Laban’s creative method, in which nomenclature functions less as description than advance notice that normal dessert protocols have been suspended. A mango tart is ordinarily a composed object: fruit, pastry and some expectation of portion control. Bazabeezo Mango retains the first two ideas while appearing to treat the third as hostile criticism.

For a shop that has made a speciality of turning familiar sweets into increasingly elaborate public events, scale is part of the flavour. Bazabeezo Mango is therefore less an ending to mango season than its closing ceremony—large, conspicuous and almost certainly difficult to approach with an ordinary cake server.