Thursday September 12th, 2024
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A Rendezvous with Peru at the Fairmont Nile City’s Gingko - A Review

With stunning views of the Nile, Fairmont Nile City’s Gingko is a lively alfresco destination where one can savour the sunset, indulge in Peruvian flavours, and do it all with a cocktail in hand.

Ziyad El-Helbawy

A Rendezvous with Peru at the Fairmont Nile City’s Gingko - A Review

When one is invited to savour a taste of Peru, the only logical thing to do is drop everything and call an Uber. That, more or less, is how my rendezvous with Peru at the Fairmont Nile City Cairo’s Gingko came to be. As a food journalist in Egypt, I’m not ashamed to admit that there are still a few cuisines I’ve yet to experience. Until my evening at Gingko, Peruvian cuisine was at the top of that slowly diminishing list.

Upon arriving at the Fairmont, I swiftly took the elevator two floors up, made a slight left turn, and found myself heading toward Gingko. My appetite was already piqued by the stunning views before me. With an alfresco setup and a bar that served as the crown jewel at its centre, Gingko offered a 270-degree view of the Nile below, glowing under the sunset. With greenery on the terrace and a gentle breeze blowing, I found my seat.

Now comfortable and having taken my customary 49—or so—aesthetic shots of the view for my weekly Instagram post, my attention turned to the menu. Featuring an array of International, Asian, and Peruvian flavours, Gingko’s menu was anything but lacking. Yet the decision was not mine to make, and thankfully so. Sometimes, it’s nice to relinquish control, especially when the chefs at Gingko had quite the feast prepared for me.

As notes of Dalida’s ‘Love in Portofino’ echoed on the breeze, I sat patiently, waiting for my first entrée. It didn’t take long…

The Entrées

Presented with a plate of Tuna Tiradito, the Peruvian variation on ceviche, to prime my palate, I was initially sceptical, seeing as my relationship with tuna thus far has been a bit shaky - although after one bite, we quickly managed to solve our differences. The texture was smooth, and the taste was fresh with a subtle citrusy kick. The presentation was simple yet elegant, with the tuna arranged in a neat, symmetric ring.

Now, on to the next…

A salmon ceviche followed, fresh and soft in texture. It was garnished with caviar, cherry tomatoes, avocado, and a few mint leaves, adding layers of flavour and colour to the dish. Alongside the ceviche, I was served a lively mocktail made with strawberry and Sprite, a refreshing - and considering the summer heat, much needed - complement. 

Already I was quite pleased with what has thus far been presented, but my favourite dish of the night would prove to be the very next: the Shrimp Volcano. 

Any certified lover of prawns will tell you one thing: a fried shrimp dish needs to strike the perfect balance between a crispy exterior and a tender interior. The Shrimp Volcano did just that. The breading was incredibly light, offering a satisfying crunch without overwhelming the delicate shrimp inside. The sauce was spot-on—not too soggy, not too scant, with just the right amount of tang and spice. 

A perfect appetiser, the portion was generous, a literal pyramid of shrimp, each bite delivering the taste of a shrimp that truly gave its life for a greater purpose. A plate of house-cut ‘Gingko’ chips followed, lightly topped with fresh parmesan cheese, offering a break before the next dish. 

Next up were the Beef and Chicken Anticucho, served separately with a tiny piece of corn, a cherry tomato, a single thinly sliced mushroom, and a cucumber slice shaped like a flower, all brightened by a touch of vinegar. The beef was perfectly charred, not too chewy, and cooked medium-well, with a rich, smoky flavour. But it was the chicken that truly won me over. 

I found myself going back to it again and again—though I might be a bit biassed. In this round, the chicken was the clear winner. Now ever-the-more-curious about the main courses, I was notified that there was indeed one more entrée to get through, and this one, I would see prepared live…

Invited to the proverbial backstage, I witnessed as a dextrous chef prepared my salmon rolls. Show over, the salmon rolls were presented in quite the theatrical manner, with smoke - and don’t ask me, i’m not a pyrotechnic - emanating from the wooden food base. The rolls were fresh and flavoursome as one would expect, but otherwise unremarkable when compared to its shrimp predecessors.

 

The Mains

Now for the main event: the Spice Prawns. Served - thankfully - half peeled, the shrimp was both reminiscent of ones enjoyed within the comfort of home with family, yet bore a distinctly foreign flavour one could only assume is a Peruvian secret. Paired with a side of steamed rice, the dish was fulfilling, yet once more I found myself comparing it to the Shrimp Volcano, which in my eyes, were still the clear star of the night, but that would soon change…

The Star of the Evening

Between the Spice Prawns and the next course, I was presented with a fresh, citrusy tangerine juice to cleanse my palate. Soon after, a cart was carefully wheeled to my table, carrying a ribeye steak that was cooked live in front of me. The steak sizzled as flames flared up, making for an impressive show. Served with brown sauce, cherry tomatoes, corn, mushrooms, asparagus, and grilled baby potatoes, the ribeye quickly became my favourite dish of the night.

The Desserts

By this point, I would be kidding myself - and you - if I do not admit that my stomach was reaching full capacity, but I could not leave without dessert, one would not dare blaspheme. (Side note: I am diabetic, but some things one must ignore to achieve happiness in life.)

The desserts were both delightful in their own right. The Chocolate Rocher was rich and smooth, almost like a cold ice cream, served with fried fruits and cream on a bed of crispy cereal, and topped with a Ferrero Rocher. The Almond Nougat was soft, light, and ice-cold, filled with frozen fruits and also served on a bed of cereal, with a thin ganache made of dried fruit candy. Both desserts were perfectly balanced in sweetness—not overly indulgent, which might not satisfy everyone’s sweet tooth, but as a diabetic, I appreciated the guilt-free enjoyment.

The Verdict

From start to finish, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience at Gingko. Gingko offers a relaxed and stylish setting with its black-and-white tiles and wooden terraces shaded by greenery. The panoramic view of the Nile, with the sun reflecting off its gentle waves, provides a calming backdrop. The bar’s central location on the terrace complements the soft music and the subtle reflections of the indoor waterworks in the Fairmont’s interior, creating a refined setting for a memorable dining experience, one I will surely return to.


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