Cairo According to: Hayat Aljowaily

Hayat Aljowaily is something of a cultural nexus. Her directorial debut won the Audience Award at the Tripoli Online Film Festival in 2020, and she later served as assistant director to Mohamed Diab on Marvel's 'Moon Knight'. Beyond directing, she works as a producer and cultural programmer, and in 2022 founded Kalam Aflam, a cultural association connecting young and emerging artists across MENA and the diaspora with opportunities and one another. This year, she continues as Director of the Gouna Film Festival's CineGouna Emerge, helping the next generation of filmmakers carve out a place in the industry.

Here, Aljowaily gives CairoScene the vertical’s most comprehensive food and coffee guide yet, tells the story of how she once walked 12 kilometres on a date, and talks about how she pays tribute to the movie haven without which Cairo’s film scene wouldn’t survive a day.

A place that means Cairo to me:

Dokdok, the Felucca place in Garden City. I grew up going there with my family, continued to bring my college friends who’d visit over the summers, and now I go whenever I want a ‘getaway’ from Cairo’s hustle — without actually leaving Cairo. It feels like getting a breath of fresh air all while being splat in the middle of the city. It’s also so refreshing to be out in Cairo and not forced to consume anything.

Complete the following, Cairo is…

So chaotic that it ends up being grounding? I did an interview with Ahmed Malek when I was 19 and I remember him describing Cairo as “chaotic beauty.” I understand now. It’s in its chaos and unpredictability that Cairo comes alive. Everything always miraculously seems to come together no matter what.

My favourite neighbourhood:

I’m going to have to go for Downtown. It really feels like the beating heart of Cairo. So many of my favourite spots are there. It’s so diverse when it comes to what it has to offer: I love that no matter what mood I’m in there’s a spot I know I can go to. And there’s something about the architecture too that I love, especially when you look up and find a beautiful façade you really weren’t expecting.

My go-to food spot is:

I like to cook, so I try not to go out for food unless I know it’s gonna slap. Some of my faves are Zeeyara (I think about their ruz muammar quite often), Khufu’s when I have friends visiting from abroad, and Samak Laban when I want my taste buds to go on an emotional journey!!!

Also, anywhere that has anything with lamoon me3asfar (even though my grandma makes a mean one at home with lemons from our garden!). Sala Thai in Maadi for when I’m craving Asian food (happens more often than you’d think).

My go-to café:

I’m a big coffee gal, so I’m quite picky with my spots. I’d say Amor Perfecto in Zamalek for quick runs before heading to the office, Foam for when I want somewhere more social and sunny, and Specialty Bun in Arkan for work meetings.

And… for evenings, Greek Club. Keda Keda.

My go-to date spot:

I love a long, meandering walk around Zamalek or Heliopolis. I once clocked 12km. They are calm enough to not be overstimulating, but with enough spots to stop for snacks along the way.

What isn’t a Cairo landmark but should be?

Cinema Zawya. Cairo’s film scene wouldn’t survive a day without it.

A song that feels like Cairo:

Somewhere between Amr Diab’s Tamaly Ma3ak and Tul8te’s Mateegy A3adi 3aleik?

A place in Cairo I wish I could re-visit for the first time:

The mosques in Old Cairo. I still never cease to be amazed whenever I go, but I wish I could experience their magnificence for the first time again.