A Spiritual Soirée in Historic Cairo During Mawlid Al-Sayeda Zaynab

12:00 AM We reach Port Said Street, right at the intersection with Mohamed Kadri Basha Street.

My friends and I head towards the ancient mosque of. Struck by the busy Port Said street, thousands of people converge upon the sacred spot, flowing through the packed street like a river. We join in and drift with the current. Looking ahead, we witness the timeless facade of the mosque, adorned with a kaleidoscope of vibrant lights. Every hue dances across its historic walls, casting a magical glow that feels almost otherworldly. The air hums with energy as the voices of those walking on foot blend into a rising symphony of praises to God, carried along by the general clamour and the echoes of horns.

Tonight, the mosque and district of Al-Sayeda Zaynab in historic Cairo beat with a numinous state, having been resurrected with a spirit of devotion. We are here to celebrate the Mawlid (birth of) Zaynab Bint Ali, granddaughter of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). Pilgrims from every corner of Egypt are drawn toward this holy building, where her shrine is cradled.

Held during the final days of the Hijri month of Rajab, this year the Mawlid falls on January 28th, 2025. However, the gatherings commenced at least three to five days earlier, building up to El Leila El Kebira - ‘The Grand Night’ - which is believed to mark the saint’s birth. Mawlid celebrations in Egypt are an enduring tradition deeply woven into the fabric of our identity. Though not officially inscribed on UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage, they hold profound significance and continue to reflect our cultural narrative.

12:10 AM We stroll along Port Said Street on the central median.

While the winter wind is swelling with the rich, intoxicating scent of incense, the hums of the ceremonies rise. Meanwhile, we are crossing the street, departing on an uncharted midnight soiree in old Cairo.

12:30 AM  Beyond the fenced walls of Al-Sayeda Zaynab’s mosque.

In the surrounding labyrinth, the real manifestation of the festival took shape and spread in every corner and alleyway. Navigating through, you’ll find people on the mews, some in tents and others right there on the pavement. Those are your travellers who came from upper Egypt or from around the delta to spend a week celebrating the birth of Al-Sayeda Zaynab.

Children hoisted onto their fathers' shoulders wear colourful Tartoor (طرطور), bright and cheerful paper hats. Vendors push carts brimming with sweet treats, while food is generously handed out to passersby as part of a Nadr (نذر) - a sacred vow to Allah, undertaken in gratitude or in hopes of divine favour.

12:45 AM Dhikr chants, people dance, robes swirl, and I am anchored yet etherealized

Though the scene might seem chaotic and overwhelming, there is an undeniable soulful force at play that deeply affects how you feel. The Mawlid festivities, with its roots in Sufi mysticism, carries a transcendent weight. Central to this experience are the collective dhikr sessions scattered throughout the festivities. These moments infuse the ambiance with a sense of transcendence and communal unity.

The dhikr is a collective rhythmic meditation led by a Munshid, a religious singer whose voice serves as a guide into the spiritual realm. The sacred chants, paired with the soft glow of hanging lights at the end of a narrow corridor tucked between packed buildings, catches our attention. The rhythmic dancing of men draws us in, and slowly, an atmosphere of reverence takes hold. As they whirl and spin, their robes flutter like the wings of angels caught in an eternal dance. The heavenly energy is almost tangible, and merely witnessing this moment fills us with a sense of enchantment.

1:15 AM The entranced woman in the blue veil captures my gaze.

Sitting on a metal chair with a dark upholstered back, a woman in a blue veil, is lost in another world. Her eyes are closed, her hands rhythmically tapping against her chest, and she sways her head in an endless, circular motion, as if drawing herself into a deeper state of surrender. Meanwhile, at the back, a group of men sits together, facing the reciting Munshid. Their composed presence and quiet attentiveness suggest they are the ones supporting or funding the dhikr.

1:30 AM A string of hanging lights guides us toward our final ‘halakat dhikr’ tucked away between the apartment buildings.

We’ve witnessed two dhikr sessions so far and are still roaming through the darkened, quieter lanes. They shouldn't be this quiet - on any other night, they would be far more crowded. Somehow, we find ourselves back exactly where we started, but this time, another session is unfolding in a small nook. We step in, only to be guided even deeper inside, where a larger gathering is taking place. Men and women sit around what looks like a staged area, while at the centre, a group of men - only men - are chanting, swaying, and moving in a rhythmic trance.

Aside from their religious significance, Mawlid celebrations also carry an economic dimension. The markets and amusement areas that emerge during the festivities play a crucial role in the local economy. Additionally, the ability of visitors to travel from across the country and spend several days in the capital is closely tied to the nation’s economic conditions.

2:00 AM Observing and reflecting…

As we reflect on our visit, we notice a distinct shift from previous years. It wasn't as crowded as we had anticipated. In light of the ongoing financial challenges, this dip in attendance seems to mirror the financial strains many are facing. Alternatively, it’s possible that a number of attendees left earlier than usual. While the crowds were still present, they didn’t quite match the bustling scene I had imagined.

Walking away from the festivities felt like resisting the pull of a lingering dream. The night was still alive, the streets humming with laughter and the glow of lanterns, inviting us to stay, to wander a little longer with those who would revel until sunrise. But duty calls, morning waits, and with it, the quiet return to reality.

Photography Credit: Amany Kamal, Jihad Abaza, Rana Gabr, Tinne Van Loon